Fashion Model Activism – The New Era of Woke Models
The fashion industry is known for it’s vapid obsession with clothing and image, especially with outward facing marketing like high fashion runway shows and major marketing campaigns. As the face of these campaigns, models often become scapegoats for the vanity of the industry. Movies and TV shows like Zoolander and America’s Next Top Model have only added to the perception that models are merely a canvas with no agency of their own. But, in the era of Instagram influencers, and social business, a wave of model-activists are changing the game.
With fame comes power and responsibility. Many may want to shy away from the pressure; but when done right, this can be a positive tool for making a difference. Cameron Russell is credited for starting this trend with her TEDtalk on how looks aren’t everything. Her movement has grown into more than just scrutinizing the modeling industry and has developed into a platform for the fashion industry to discuss global issues such as climate change, race inequality and women’s rights. In 2015 Cameron Russell represented Vogue at the United Nations summit on climate change (COP21) in Paris, where she covered the talks and deciphered the issues for their fashion audience. Her activism has led her to start her own platform, Model Mafia, which brings together models to fight for causes. As she says, “Models are uniquely poised to become fantastic activists because they are some of the few women who have very direct access to media.”
The trend of model activism and “woke” models comes at a time where fast fashion is growing dangerously out of control. There are more than 15 million tons of textile waste produced every year in the United States. If we were to extend the life of clothing by just three months, we could reduce water and carbon consumption by 5-10%. In addition to the waste created by the industry, the globalized manufacturing that makes these cheap fast fashion prices possible, is resulting in unfair working conditions, child labor, and hazardous working environments. All while industry professions from CEOs and designers, to models are profiting from these exploits of both environmental and human capital. This dirty industry needs ambassadors to fight for change, why not the models that have the platforms and the influence to reach an audience that care about clothing?
Consumer pressure is a strong driver for what kinds of products get developed. Imagine if young girls had role models to look up to for guidance on how to be conscious consumers, this could cause a dramatic shift in consumer behavior. Models with large followings can potentially help us lift the curtain on the industry and lead the charge in bringing some desperately needed transparency. With authenticity, and engaging story telling, model’s have the tools make real change.
Woke models like Leomie Anderson, who publishes articles by women and combines fashion with activism to make clothing with empowering phrases, are leading the pack in the model-activist phenomenon. One of Cameron Russell’s Model Mafia members, Renee Peters, advocates for ridding our oceans of plastic, and for a more transparent fashion industry, while another (Hawa Hassan) is fighting to solve the refugee crisis and battle climate change. The list goes on, and it’s amazing to see the projects these models have started. I look froward to seeing this trend grow, and can’t wait to see the impact. Marketing and influencer networks have such a big influence on public perception and I am excited to see that models are using their platform and engaged following to drive positive change.
I personally love filling my feed with powerful female role models, and the models highlighted in this post are perfect additions. Seeing what these women are doing makes me excited by what is possible and also how we are stronger when we work together. It would be amazing to see Model Mafia groups pop up around the country and the world. If you’re a model, I encourage you to get out there and use your platform to encourage others to do good. If you’re not, support them. Find those role models that are advocating for what you care about and help them spread their message.
Why I Don’t Own a Sustainable Bikini
Nothing feels more freeing than swimming in the clear blue waters back home on the Big Island of Hawai’i. I just got back this week and am here for about a month, I can’t wait to reconnect with the rhythm of the ocean waves. The salt water smooths my skin and floating in the sunshine instantly cures any remaining New York City anxiety.
When packing for this trip I realized the only swimsuits I own are from a time before I fully committed to the conscious fashion life. One top was a bit worn out and the elastic was shot, but otherwise I had two sets of bikinis and a one piece for my trip. By my standards of only buying clothing when absolutely necessary, there was no need to buy another suit.
Part of the reason for starting this blog was to keep myself accountable, but it also has the power to make me insecure for those moments that I’m less than perfect. I am a conscious fashionista, but it can be hard to stay on track when there is pressure to stay on trend, have a head to toe sustainable fashion look, and not break the bank. Especially in this day and age with social media amplifying every imperfection, you can’t hide.
Even though the goal of my blog is not to post my #ootd, or promote brands, I do love clothes and if sharing my style inspires people to get involved I’m more than happy to share. Before leaving on this trip, however, I got extremely nervous about the idea of posting pictures of myself in a non-sustainable swimsuit. I found myself seconds away from impulse buying an adorable made in Hawaii swimsuit, from a brand that happened to be having a flash sale. The credit card was out, shipping was selected, all I had to do was push one button and it’d be mine, but I paused. WHY I was purchasing the swimsuit? After some deeper thought, I decided it wasn’t necessary.
One of the biggest tools in conscious fashion is being mindful of your actions and what’s truly motivating you to buy a garment. Our society has trained us that impulse buying is natural and that if we want something we should have it. As soon as there’s a new trend, ditch the old piece and get the new one. We’re taught that all occasions should be celebrated with a new outfit. A friend’s wedding coming up? Buy a new dress. A beach vacation booked? But a new swimsuit. This mindless pattern of consumption results in a closet full of one hit wonders leaving you wanting more, instead of timeless treasures.
Usually before buying an item, I identify a hole in my closet, then I exhaustively research online for brands I trust, or I’ll hit the thrift shops (almost daily) until I find a piece that fills that hole. In the case of this swimsuit, was there a hole in my closet or was there another motivating factor? When it came down to it, I realized that I wanted to buy the suit for the Instagram post. To post myself in a bikini that was in line with my ethical shopping guidelines. That’s all well and good, but it was more for my ego and consumerism than anything else, motivators that don’t justify a shopping spree.
I have been upcycling, thrifting and buying sustainable for four years now, but I’ve had some lapses, and have always had a hard time with swimsuits. It’s not that there is a lack of sustainable swimwear, they’re just a bit pricey, and I’ve never been able to bring myself to buy a used swimsuit. I usually keep on budget by frequenting thrift stores and buying vintage, but without that option I ended up buying non-sustainable options in my budget with the intention to wear them as long as I could. This is not the perfect answer to the problem, but it’s what worked for me at the time, and I’m not about to throw away a perfectly good swimsuit just because it’s not ethically made. After all, waste is one of the biggest issues of the sustainable fashion world and I do my best not to contribute to this ever increasing problem.
If I was still living in Hawai’i or frequented the beach or pool throughout the year I would consider buying a new swimsuit from one of the many sustainable swimwear brands out there. The reality is, however, that I’ll be in New York City for the next two years studying with my nose in a book or writing research papers. When I wear out the one’s I have now, I’ll gladly buy a new sustainable suit, keeping in mind my conscious fashion principles. Until then, I’ll be checking myself to make sure I’m not purchasing just for the sake of having something new to wear or to share with you all. I’m happy to have this blog to keep me on track and accountable.
A Guide – Three Steps to Avoid Falling for Fashion Greenwashing
I walked through Times Square the other day and was faced with H&M’s massive billboard advertisement, touting it’s clothes as the sustainable choice and highlighting its recycling program. The first thing I saw was a video of heaps of clothing headed for recycling, and was intrigued. As I watched, the video shifted to models wearing cute clothes and H&M branding displayed loud and clear. I felt a pang of disappointment. I started to wonder, how many people walk by this and think “awesome, I can buy cheap cute clothes and save the planet too!”
It’s no secret that sustainability is affecting consumer habits, and companies are cashing in on this. The term greenwashing was coined in the 1980’s, but it’s been happening ever since we as a society, have been fighting to protect the planet. The fashion industry has become increasingly rampant with it, from companies like H&M, Zara and Uniqlo starting recycling programs, to misinterpretations of textiles as sustainable.
I’m generally skeptical when any brand makes lofty claims about their environmentally friendly mission. Our generation is generally weary of marketing messages and hate the feeling of “being marketed to”, but we still get caught in its trap. Brands are catering to our desire for a sustainable alternative to fast fashion, and have become really good at doing so.
Instead of taking these campaigns at face value, I like to dissect them and understand what value they’re really bringing. Through reading the fine print on the label and website and asking, “Is what they’re saying true? And if so, is it actually sustainable?”, you can cut through the greenwashing.
Look for the facts – is what they’re saying true?
These days looking for genuine sustainable fashion brands is like looking for facts in a sea of fake news. It can be overwhelming to get through the bullshit when there are so many companies attempting to capitalize off this trend.
If a brand is making bold claims about their clothes but offer little information to back it up, this should raise red flags. Also, if the facts are mysteriously missing from their site and all they offer is a general sustainability statement, not good. These are signs that the marketing campaign was meant to lure you in with it’s eco-conscious messaging and nothing more.
The boom in bamboo fabric as a sustainable alternative is a great example of greenwashing gone bad. It was early in the rise of sustainable fashion, and few consumers knew what to look for when considering sustainable sourcing. Although harvesting of bamboo can be more sustainable than other wood pulp based textiles, the process of making the textile was chemically intensive and harmful to the earth. Yet, bamboo’s association with zen buddhism helped to drive sales of this fabric as the sustainable choice in yoga studios, and activewear brands. The marketing worked.
It wasn’t until reports started coming out that bamboo fabric was not the miracle sustainable textile people were hoping for, that brands started to back off of their bamboo greenwashing.
Ask questions – what sort of impact are they making?
In some of the more convincing greenwashing campaigns everything might technically be true, but you have to dig a little deeper to understand if it’s a truly sustainable claim. For example, yes you can drop off your clothes to be recycled at H&M, but what happens to them? What kind of an impact does this make on our planet?
In the recent Copenhagen Fashion Summit, closing the loop was the main focus, and many fashion brands are following suit. This could be game changing, as a circular fashion system would solve one of the industry’s biggest environmental conundrums, waste. Yet, we are seeing recycling programs popping up at many unlikely brands such as H&M, Zara, and Uniqlo, are they really helping to solve the issue of waste in the garment industry?
Lucy Siegle summarizes the issue well in her article on The Guardian, “…if 1,000 tons is recycled, that roughly equates to the same amount of clothes a brand of this size pumps out into the world in 48 hours. Then there are voucher schemes, which often fuel more purchasing.”
It is clear that through this program they are fueling more waste than what they are able to take in, and encouraging consumers to buy more and more. All in all the program is just a way to make them and their consumers feel better.
Read the fine print – learn to navigate the labels, sustainability statements and certificates
One of the most basic ways to cross check and research a brand’s sustainability claims is by reading the clothing label, analyzing their sustainability mission on their website, and seeing what certificates they have.
A clothing label isn’t everything, but I like to start there. It nice to have the basics, the country of manufacture and content. Here you can see if the material is 100% recycled or if it’s mixed with others, or you can confirm that the clothes really are made in America.
Next, I do I quick once over of the site, do they have a commitment to sustainability? And if they do, what does it say? Many corporations have a very generic sustainability mission on their site, since it’s pretty standard at this point, and if that’s all they have they probably don’t really care. Brands that are fully committed to the cause will include the details on their site, they have nothing to hide.
Lastly, do they have certificates or standards that they adhere to? Are they Fair Trade or GOTS certified? Are they a part of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition? It’s important to note that although these are a good marker for bigger brands, I wouldn’t hold smaller companies to the same standard. It can be pretty expensive and time consuming to get these certificates, and for innovative start-ups and independent designers that just might not be in the cards.
Keep in mind, not all certificates are created equal. Some are more respected than others based on what their standards are and how they enforce them. There are some certificates that brands may pay a lot of money for so that they appear more sustainable to their consumers, but at the end of the day, doesn’t impact their product very much. I think it’s helpful to know of three to four quality standards and certificate that you stand behind and support brands that are committed to those standards.
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Now you can go forth and feel confident that you can side-step the alluring greenwashing campaigns. It takes a little bit of extra effort, but it will be worth it. Ultimately we need to see a cultural shift where people think about their clothing purchases and understand the human and environmental implications of their choices. If we can achieve this, eventually corporations will realize this is what people want and shift their ways, or at least I hope so. No matter how dire the situation gets, I’m a steadfast optimist.