Conscious Running – From Mind to Shoes
Today’s post is an exercise in how I approach a clothing buying decision. I’m highlighting an area that is tough to shop sustainably, running gear. I have some go to brands, but it’s an area where there is constant innovation and I’m always looking to discover new products.
But first, a quick ode to running. I was never much of a runner when I was younger, I hated it in high school. I tried running a bit in college, but never more than a couple miles and it always felt like a chore. I didn’t fall in love with running until grad school, when I was living in Japan for a year. I made a commitment to myself to run every day for the rest of the year, this was at the beginning of December. Then January rolled around and I just kept running.
I used the time to clear my mind, listening to the sound of my breath; feeling the air fill my body and then letting go. Suddenly running wasn’t something forced and painful, it was something I could use to be with myself and let my anxiety melt away.
When I started my conscious fashion lifestyle, running gear was top on my list of items to research. I’m breaking it down by shoes and clothes, since my thought process was different for each.
Shoes
It’s been a hard fact for me to swallow the fact that no matter what I do, I have to buy new running shoes regularly otherwise I’m putting my body at risk of injury. There is nothing that I can do to make the shoe last longer after I’ve run 300+ miles on them. (If you have any ideas on how to do this, please share!)
Since I’m training for the NYC marathon, that means I have to buy new shoes every 3 to 4 months. Because of that, finding a shoe that is recyclable and low impact is important to me. You might be shocked to hear this, but I wear Nike. Nike Flyknits. I chose these due to the FlyKnit design that knits the top of the shoe with zero waste. Then, when I’m done, I just take them into a Nike store or send them in to be recycled.
There are other brands with innovative technologies as well. Adidas, for example, has created a shoe out of recycled water bottles. Newtown Running is the first running shoe B Corp brand. There are also other alternatives to Nike for shoe recycling, such as Soles 4 Souls and Shoes for Planet Earth.
Clothes
When I first started running, I would just scrounge up old T-shirts and gym shorts for my runs, I didn’t really care what I looked like. As I spent more time running and realized how a cute running outfit could motivate me to push myself harder, I started looking into sustainable (and somewhat affordable) running clothes. Generally speaking there are two types of sustainable running gear, recycled polyester/plastic or natural organic cottons/merino wool.
There’s a lot of interesting innovation and creative new brands in the world of recycled polyester/plastic. One of my favorite new pair of leggings is from Girlfriend Collective, which makes their products out of recycled water bottles in an SA8000 certified factory in Vietnam. For more of a boho chic vibe, Teeki is another great recycled water bottle legging brand, but they’re not quite as practical for running. You can also sort products on Nike by those using recycled polyester. Threads 4 Thought is another great brand using recycled polyester, and their clothes perform well for running. Once you start looking, you’ll realize that these products are popping up all over.
On the flip side there is the all natural way of merino wool and cotton products. Wool is literally a miracle fiber, it is moisture wicking and unlike polyester will not lock in bad odor. It also miraculously has the ability to keep you both warm and cool. Icebreaker has some amazing merino wool running gear that is ethically sourced in New Zealand. Cool new it activewear brand, Outdoor Voices, also has a merino wool collection, among others.
Of course you could do what I do what I first started running and wear second hand t-shirts and old running shorts. But, when you run as much as I do, it’s important to have gear that will make you feel empowered to perform your best.
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Once you discover which materials fit into your conscious fashion world, it’s easier to move forward from there. I like the idea of having an activewear brand that collects materials to recycle or will take back their products to recycled for you, in effect closing the product lifecycle loop. Patagonia is committed to making all their products renewable, but it would be great to see this extend beyond sustainable fashion’s poster child.
I’m always open to hearing about new brands and ideas if you’d like to share. Leave a comment or send a note!
The Complexities of Transparent Material Sourcing
Many people ask me “what is sustainable fashion?” and I’m always at a loss for a quick and easy answer. I usually end up responding with something like, “being conscious of your choices, knowing where your clothes come from.” But honestly, it needs a full explanation, especially for those who are new to the apparel industry and the garment manufacturing process.
The fashion industry has struggled with how to tackle the issue of transparency in its multi-layered supply chain, mainly due to the fact that very few fashion brands are vertically integrated. Generally speaking, the people that grow/produce the fibers, process the fibers, weave the textile, dye the fabric, cut the fabric, sew the clothing, and ship the product are all different. At each step along the way the material and labor could be coming from any number of places, much of which is kept under wraps. This makes it very difficult to track if the materials are produced sustainably or ethically.
Many brands work with factory agents that then coordinate production with their factories abroad, you might not know exactly which factory your goods are being made. Mills could get their resources from several farms, some of which could be using slave labor. Factories abroad can get a backlog of work and sub-contract out your production to a facility that uses child labor. All of this is sadly all too common in garment manufacturing, and many brands choose to look the other way.
As a consumer, understanding the process of making textiles and how clothing is made is the first step in making sustainable choices in your wardrobe. With new innovations and technology, the materials going into garments is constantly growing. It spans from your traditional natural fibers like cotton, wool, linen etc., to wood pulp based fabrics, and recycled plastics. There are pros and cons to each type of material, and there is no one miracle sustainable textile. You can use the overview below as a general guide.
Natural fibers
Cotton – Wools – Linen – Silk – Hemp
There are those out there that vow to only wear “natural fibers” meaning those taken from the earth. It’s also important to pay attention to how the fibers were processed, this category usually contains fibers in their pure state, not overly processed. Of course organic cottons/wools are better, otherwise you may be exposing your skin to harmful chemicals.
Wood Pulp Based
Rayon – Cupro – Lyocell – Bamboo
Although no animals were harmed in making these fabrics, the process is highly chemically intensive. Not to mention some of these fabrics using wood pulp are sourced from endangered forests. Many people think of bamboo as a sustainable textile, but when processed in this way I would argue that it’s not, even though the cultivation of the crop is more environmentally friendly than others in this category.
Plastics/Synthetics
PVC – Polyester – Nylon – Recycled PET/Recycled Polyester
Traditional synthetic materials, PVC, Polyester, Nylon, have no benefits in terms of sustainability. But, now that these materials are in our eco-system, people are recycling them to make new garments. Many active wear brands that rely on these synthetic fibers are making recycled PET and recycled polyester more accessible, which is exciting.
Reclaimed Materials
Vintage Fabrics – Recycled Cotton – Repurposed Goods
I personally love this category. From unravelling old sweaters and using the yarn to using tuna skin from food waste to create leather, there are a lot of opportunities here. It’s all about looking as what others see as disposable and turning it into a usable product. This might be less common, but you’re getting something truly unique and special when you use materials with a past.
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It takes a lot of time and effort to examine a brand’s ethics and sourcing practices, but if you’re motivated to do so, sites like Project Just are helpful to get started. I’ll write a post just on research tools this month.
There are also some great online e-tailers that have your back, one of my favorites is Fashionkind, but there are new one’s popping up all the time and honestly it’s hard to keep up. It’s wonderful to see that people are looking for places to find sustainable fashion, which the growing demand hopefully we’ll start to see a shift in the industry.
Clothing Alchemy – Making Your Clothes Last
Oh the plight of feeling like we have nothing to wear even though our closets are full. It’s hard to restructure our mindset of old is bad, tired and boring. But by being mindful of our choices and with a bit of creativity, we can keep the life of our garments going strong. Through brainstorming creative styling ideas, breathing new life into our clothes or, if the garment is truly just had it, repurposing them into one-of-a-kind creations, you’ll have a closet that continuously excites.
Most importantly, extending the lifecycle of your clothes keeps the material from winding up in landfills and creating excess waste. You don’t have to partake in the “buy-buy-buy” consumer mindset that marketing campaigns and deep discount sales make so appealing when you have what you need and you have the tools to constantly recreate your wardrobe.
Rediscovering Old Pieces
I love polishing old treasures in my closet that I’ve either forgotten about or have gotten bored of. Mixing and matching and being bold enough to try something new is what fashion is all about. You can be more creative when you’re not buying fast fashion that falls apart after a couple washes, long lasting clothes grow with you. I hate to be cliché, but think Carrie Bradshaw, she was always taking a chance on innovative styling.
Something fun to try is taking a piece of clothing used for one thing and morphing it into something completely new. Take a shirt that you can style as a skirt or a skirt that you can style as a dress. Play around with it, the options are endless. Let me know what you come up with!
Giving Your Clothes Some Love
These days we’ve been programed to throw away worn or broken items in exchange for new, but a simple fix of a hem, adding a missing button or patching up a garment is easy and oftentimes adds character. It’s good practice to keep a simple sewing kit at home, you can take one of those you get in hotel rooms, or just grab the essentials from your Mom’s sewing kit.
If you’re not a skilled sewer yourself, you could always ask a friend or take your clothes in to be altered. Instead of going to buy a new top, you can take in one you already have to be altered and update your look. This is why it’s good to invest in high quality pieces that last a long time, if you tire of the style, you can update the look with a little tweak of the fit.
Time For a Make-over!
There are endless projects you can do with worn out clothes, I started a whole business out of this when I was in Hawai’i, repurposing old textiles. Depending on what shape the piece of clothing is in, you could either transform it into something new and wearable, or completely break it down to use for something else.
I tend to get holes in my jeans in the crotch area, and one of my favorite upcycling projects is to make denim skirts. Although, there’s only so many denim skirts a girl can have, think about cutting up the fabric for other projects, such as weaving, patchwork, quilting, or even a household rag.
If you really don’t have the time make something or repurpose the fabric on your own, look into organizations to donate to, or places that recycle or buy used clothing. There are a lot of options here, and you’ll need to do your research. Not all thrift stores are created equal, and it’s important to understand how textiles will be recycled and repurposed. By donating to the wrong organization your clothes could still end up in a landfill or be sent off to Haiti to occupy a landfill there.
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If you go through this article and you still feel like you need new additions to your closet, consider doing a clothing swap with friends. Make a day of it, invite friends over for brunch and have mimosas while swapping your forgotten duds. Having a fun Sunday with close friends will be just as worth the new finds you’ll walk away with.
Conscious Fashionista – The Clean Fashion Diet
Taking the Plunge
If you’re the type of person that loves Zara, H&M, and Forever 21, I get it, I’ve been there. I started my clean fashion/conscious fashionista journey three years ago and I’m still not perfect. I have my slip ups and moments of weakness, but that’s ok. We’re all human and like any diet, you are bound to have some setbacks.
The important thing is to shift your mindset. As a consumer you vote with your dollar, and you should know what policies and business practices your money goes towards. It’s easy to ignore or be ignorant to how our clothes are made. Most brands are not transparent about their supply chain and oftentimes production happens abroad, negatively affecting communities we’re not a part of.
Many words get thrown around when talking about this alternative fashion movement, sustainable, eco, fair trade, slow, etc. It can be confusing with different labels and definitions depending on which perspective people are taking on the issue. There also tends to be a lot of blame and judgement thrown around, making it an exclusive clique where outsiders don’t feel welcome. I’m attempting to open up this world a little and define the mindset of those taking part in the movement, and the steps you can take to stand with us.
I choose the words conscious and ethical because they are not tainted by overuse or greenwash marketing…as of yet. Furthermore, words like sustainable and fair trade are only facets of the movement. I’m certainly not the first person defining the field but for me it goes beyond the clothes themselves to the consciousness of the consumer. I’ll leave you with my definition below:
Conscious Fashionista – An individual who expresses themselves through clothing that is well made and long lasting, with minimal to no negative impact on the earth and people who created them. They celebrate innovation, impeccable design, cultural traditions and craftsmanship. The Conscious Fashionista is mindful of the damage caused by fast fashion and is fighting back by sharing her ethical fashion story and standing up against fast fashion.
Sounds simple, but it can be hard to go against the grain of our consumer culture. Here are some guiding principles to help get you started and stay on track.
Track and Trace – Know the Source
Depending on the brand, this can be tricky. But if it is too difficult to confirm that the materials are responsibly sourced, or that they are treating their workers well, you probably shouldn’t be shopping there. Many brands these days have their “corporate social responsibility” blurb, which sounds really nice, but there’s usually more to the story. Take H&M for example, they are pushing a lot of sustainability initiatives and even producing with their own sustainable line, but they are still creating massive amounts of waste and producing at potentially unsafe factories with unfair working conditions. This is where you have to make your own judgement call, do the sustainability initiatives make up for everything else? It’s your call, but make sure you’re well informed and can stand behind your choices.
It helps to narrow down the main causes you care about as opposed to ethical fashion as a whole. Whether it be organic materials, locally made, fair working conditions, etc. Choose one or two that you’re truly passionate about and let that drive you.
For me, I love vintage as well as long lasting classic pieces that are produced fairly. Before I shop, I think of anything I’m missing from my wardrobe and research different types of styles and fit to see what I actually want before stepping foot in a store, or purchasing online. I have a handful of go-to brands that I’ve researched and trust, if I don’t see what I want there, I hit the vintage stores. The goal is to buy products that you will cherish.
Quality and Tradition – Know Your Fashion
Did you learn to sew with your mom? Or maybe your grandma taught you to knit? These days maybe not, but traditionally clothing was a very personal and cultural experience. You were given heirloom products from your older family members, and you’d spend hours creating and making textiles together. These traditions have largely been lost due to the globalization and industrialization of our communities. Part of becoming a conscious fashionista is to reconnect to these roots and appreciate the garment as something that should be well made and non-disposable.
This is not to say that you need to make all your clothes, but to celebrate designers and innovators. Find brands you can stand behind and understand what makes their products so special. If you appreciate what goes into making a quality piece of clothing, the better you can spot the subtleties in great, well thought out design.
Again you’ll need to decide what is most important to you, quality design means different things to different people. Some people choose to follow artisan brands preserving cultural crafts, others follow tech companies creating radical new ways of recycling textiles. Whatever you choose, just start following, sharing stories and engaging in the community, this is a great first step.
Share the Love – Tell Your Story
At the end of the day, fashion is about expression and having fun. You should feel confident and empowered when you get dressed in the morning. Being a conscious fashionista is showing pride in your clothes and being excited about their story. When seeing someone who is well dressed and confident in their style, others follow suit.
Share the love on Facebook, Instagram, e-mail, or however you connect with those close to you. Even just by talking about it when you’re out with your friends, or if a co-worker compliments you on your clothes, tell them your story.
One thing I’m wary of is how easy it is to get preachy when talking about the ethical fashion movement. Instead I hope to shine a light on how easy it can be, and how this can be an extension of what you may already practice. By training ourselves to look deeper and ask questions about how our clothes were sourced, and who made them, we are starting a slow cultural shift. Together we are becoming more aware of the damage caused by fast fashion, and the strength of being more mindful and conscious of your power as a consumer.
My First Post – It’s About Time
I’ve been meaning to start this blog since moving to New York City almost two years ago. With my two year anniversary coming up next week, and high on New Year’s resolutions I decided to get this thing off the ground.
Why I want to write this blog:
I bought my one-way ticket to New York City with the goal of becoming an ethical fashion pioneer and revolutionize the industry, sounds easy right? Since arriving I’ve gotten caught up in the fashion start-up non-stop grind, worked temp jobs at large fashion corporations, and am about to start a production job at a menswear brand in midtown. A little bit of everything. I’d like to use this place to step back and see what others are doing in the industry and ruminate on ideas of how to move forward as a more conscious and empathetic industry, and also possibly tell some funny fashion industry stories or give some advice here and there.
A bit about me:
I have always loved clothes. Growing up in Japan, I loved to see the new and creative ways people chose to express themselves. Sadly I wasn’t always the most thoughtful shopper, my mom can attest to that. Every year I wanted a new wardrobe. Once I stopped growing, I couldn’t understand why I couldn’t just throw out everything I was bored of and get new and shiny ones. It was a shameful time.
My first real epiphany of the extant of my consumerist brainwashing came in graduate school. I studied Japanese Tantric Buddhism for three years and it forced me to be introspective on my own material driven behavior, it stopped me dead in my tracks. I wanted to learn more about the inner workings of the fashion industry and started reading books like Naked Fashion by Safia Minney, and Sustainable Fashion and Textiles by Kate Fletcher, among others. I felt guilty for even stepping into stores like H&M and Forever21. My friends thought I had lost it, and didn’t understand why I was being so picky about where my clothes were made. I became so paralyzed by how little I knew about the supply chain of the clothes I was wearing. Without a budget to afford higher quality sustainable clothing, I started my own upcycling brand and committed to buying only from Goodwill for a year – I’m sure there will be a post about this at some point 😉
This experience launched me into my ethical fashion journey, and eventually led me to where I am today in Bushwick writing this post. I’m excited to have you along on this continued celebration of well-made, conscious and inspiring design.